To Kailashji , A mountain in Tibet
Holy to four major religions Bon, Buddhist, Hindu and Jain, Mt Kailash is considered the abode of Gods. The last person known to climb this mountain is Millerepa about 900 years ago. Why? Perhaps because it doesn’t appear to be challenging, perhaps because it is revered, perhaps because the Chinese Govt does not grant permission. Reinhold Messner condemned the Spanish plans to summit “If we climb this mountain, then we conquer something in people’s soul. I would suggest they climb something harder. Kailash is not so high and not so hard”
Hard is such a relative term. Kailash may not be high or hard to summit but there is something about the energy of the Kailash mandala that brings you to your knees While summiting is not permitted; Parikrama or circumambulating is allowed with special permits After driving for 3 days and settling for two nights in Manasarovar and Darchen, we arrived at Darchen to meet with our horse, horseman and porter One can chose to walk the entire 54 km of the parikrama or chose the bus,horse, walk, horse, walk,bus route. Some even prostrate themselves on all fours for the entire 54 km and it takes approx 3 weeks to do so. Horses are assigned by a lottery system There was such electric energy at the meeting site. People went by foot or horse or on all fours and supplies went on yaks.
Heres the 7 of us with Mt. Kailash the third peak in the background. We were full of excitement to get started.
Horsemen and porters were checking each of us out, wondering who will be assigned to them. They would randomly walk around picking up our bag packs and giggle and joke. Families signed up for the Job with little ones in tow. I was one of the last to be picked and after one look at my bag pack and size, the horseman relieved his wife of her porter duty and for the rest of the three days from dawn to dusk it was me and the porter with occasional breaks where I saw the rest of the my party. The only language we spoke to each other was through our eyes and a few hand gestures.And so started the 3 day parikrama. Many pilgrims were on foot, a few on horses and few prostrating. Our silence occasionally broken by the whistling of the horseman and where the cellphone signals were good, his phone ring and his chats with his wife.
We were the first group of the season to climb The temperatures were below freezing and after 11:00 am each day, the winds would pick up and flurries would start around 3:00 pm. Even the waterfalls were holding still for us
After our initial view of Mt. Kailash we simply rode along barren mountains. And then in about an hour so, the temperature dropped suddenly and, the dry cold winds changed to a moist damp overhang. It almost enveloped us in a natural air conditioning blast. Cold yes. Uncomfortable No. My fellow yatri turned around on her horse and remarked “mausam kitne achcha ho gaya na?” And just as quickly it reverted back to dry cold wind as we reached the view of the western face. This was one place where I could really feel the tug of the mountain. We felt so close to it that we could almost touch it. There are many moments of pause on this journey and this was definitely one of them.
After about 2 hours we stopped for our chimba (bio break). While there were open holes with over hang, I would have much preferred going behind the rocks. After short water break and rest for the horses and saying hello to our Shivgans we were back on the horse again. 
But not before I took one last shot of the western face
And just when I felt my arms and legs startedvgetting numb, we trekked alongside icy patches where the rivers underneath has started their journey around the sun but it seemed the ground cover wanted to hang to winter just a bit longer.
And in the distance I saw an enclave of buildings and knew we were at the home stretch. Our teahouse/lodging was at the base of Derapuk monastery. My husband was waiting for me at the gate as I relayed the story of how I had stayed back to be a companion to another rider whose horse refused to let her ride him and the presence of my horse seemed to calm him down. I saw a clear view of Kailashji and then in a fraction of a second the clouds enshrouded him. This is the best view of Kailash on the entire route. The monastery is a couple km uphill and had I the strength (of mind more than body) I would have gone up there.
Many who walked in our party couldn't continue beyond this point.
After a quick cup of piping tea thanks to the Shivgan of Srikailashyatra, our tour organizer, I took off behind the lodge to admire the Dirapuk monastery, the beautiful flags and lettering of Om Mani Padme Hum.
The momentary glimpse of Kailashji before he enshrouded himself.
At about 8 pm as I went in search of the outhouse, the most beautiful sight awaited me. If there is heaven on earth, this is it....The moon rising over the mountains
This was probably the last time I felt like what I did at home. The feeling of awe alters the perception of time. It becomes immeasurable. Akin to what happens in meditation or deep concentration There were many moments on this trip where both time and space became an illusion. I am a mere mortal but for a moment it seemed like I was not of or on this earth. All moments after this are a blur.Day 2 was billed as a difficult day. A climb (for me on horseback) from 16000 at Derapuk to approx 19000 feet of Dolma la pass and down to 16000 feet was to be the longest day. I am not an athlete or fit by any means but I had been to Cusco at 12000 feet and managed quite well and even climbed Huyana Pichu so my ego convinced me that this 16000-19000-16000 was totally doable on a horse. But god had different plans. No plan of mine would have worked here. The next morning while waiting for my horseman to arrive on an almost deserted lodge, I took my last view of the western face of Kailash and surrendered.
The inkling of previous nights were to hold true. Once I mounted my horse, it seemed I was to be completely numb waist down and it was a challenge walking the 6 km downhill from 19000 to 16000.
At this point the horseman and I parted ways as it was too dangerous to be riding downhill on the horse. For the next 6 plus km it was a steep walk down into the valley, past the still frozen Gauri-kund, the place where Parvati created Ganesh. It is a beautiful emerald lake when melted and true to its name, The Lake of Compassion, greets the pilgrims after the toughest climb.
Once we came down to the valley and crossed over the ice field, it was time to walk along this frozen river, up a small climb and steep downhill to the tea houses where our horses awaited us. My angels on this trip were my horse (I was one of the few whose horse did not dismount me), my horseman who lifted me off the horse because I could not move, Shivgan Govinda a staff member, two young Tibetan girls who helped me walk the last 100 yards on the road. I shared smiles with them as we all warmed in the teahouse, as they sat drinking their yak tea and me eating my granola bar and water. I had 8 km more to go before our night halt at Zutulpuk. My horseman signaled me to walk further from the tea house, cross some icy bridges before I could mount the horse again. I can tell you that those 50 yards were the toughest for me....ever...until the next day that is. Finishing the home stretch and being unable to walk anymore I realized the power of surrendering to the universe. My only hope was that the next morning I will be able to ride the last 8 km.After a night's rest with warm home cooked meals by the Shivgans and the super energetic vibe of Vaishalididi, our fearless organizer, I felt energized to take on the next morning. My horseman overslept and I was the last to leave camp. As we rode in the pitch pre-dawn darkness, the full moon guiding us while Sanjeevani mountain cast long shadows, I felt my extremities going numb by the minute. And then boom, the horseman stopped the horse and asked me to dismount, signaling that I had to walk the rest of the way back. I was numb in mind and body at this time. You can see from the the photo below that my horseman took of me that I could have possibly collapsed and just stayed there.
But then I turned around and saw these countless stones all spray painted with Om mani Padme hum. It was the source of energy beyond measure
And so with the chants of Om Namah Shivayah and Om Mani Padme hum, I walked the home stretch.
Before we left Nepal, a monk at Boudhanath temple in Kathmandu had blessed us with Khata. I offered my khata to Kailashji with my loved ones names at Dolma la pass and as the final act of our gratitude my husband offered his flag at Manasarovar. 
Heres a map, I downloaded from wikipedia.
It was two and a half days of simply being disconnected from the modern amenities and surrounded by the divine, knowing that once you had started the journey, there was no going back but simply pushing it through. A great reminder in every day life!I was once asked why I chose to do this pilgrimage? Is it religion, is it a personal quest? It is both. Soon after my dad passed about 8 years ago, I received "To a Mountain in Tibet" as a gift and at the same time I found a connection with Amtastakam by Adi Sankracharya. And in an instant my desire to visit Manasarovar and Kailash came to the forefront. I could say that we were planning this trip for 8 years but it was nothing but a desire until Jan of 2018 when a chance discussion with a cousin led to a trip in May. I am forever grateful to my family for their support before during and after the trip and to the amazing team of ShrikailashYatra and in particular Vaishalididi for their superb planning, attention to detail and unwavering energy for making this a successful trip. Om Namah Shivayah!Faith is belief without proof, but trust without reservation. Heres a video of those who complete the kora with prostration[video width="640" height="352" mp4="http://kapupatel.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/kora.mp4"][/video]